Grima | The Master of Modernist Jewellery

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When thinking of works by Andrew Grima, you are immediately met with visuals of modernist, geometric and textured designs, often decorated with bold and vibrant gemstones. Grima was one of the most important post-war jewellery designers, with his innovative designs and techniques setting a different standard, moving away from the traditional and towards a new exciting future for jewellery.

Born in Rome in 1921 to a Maltese father and Italian mother, the family moved to the UK when Grima was five.  After studying at what is now Nottingham University, with the outbreak of the Second World War, he joined up as an army engineer serving in Burma, which is perhaps where he was first exposed to fine and colourful gemstones.

^{An 18ct gold and diamond brooch (£3,000-5,000) and a pair of 18ct gold and diamond tube earrings (£1,200-1,800); Andrew Grima (c.1990s)}

Grima’s start in the jewellery world came when he returned to civilian life and joined his father-in-law's jewellery firm, 'H.J. Company'. Starting in an administrative role, his creative flare soon became apparent and it wasn’t long until he began designing. Despite being entirely self-taught, he carried on with the role of designer after his father-in-law's death, and his reputation steadily grew for pieces that were innovative and modern, often featuring uncut or irregular gemstones set into abstract and heavily textured designs. 

The advent of the 1960s saw Grima's big breakthrough when his sculptural and bold designs caught the eye of royalty. In 1966, he won the Duke of Edinburgh Prize for Elegant Design and his clientele soon included HRH The Queen, other British royals, as well as America's First Lady, Jackie Kennedy Onassis. Also that year he was the first jeweller to have a single exhibition in the V&A museum, and later, in 1970, he won the Queen's Award to Industry. 

Grima continued working until his death in 2007, with his work still remaining popular and highly collectable today.  His legacy continues with his daughter, Francesca, and his wife, JoJo, spearheading the company. Currently, approximately only twenty or thirty pieces are made per year by a handful of experienced goldsmiths, most of whom have been working for Grima for over forty years. 

^{An 18ct gold and diamond brooch (£3,000-5,000) and a pair of 18ct gold and diamond tube earrings (£1,200-1,800); Andrew Grima (c.1990s)}

For those seeking to own a piece of Grima's work, in our upcoming Fine Jewellery and Watches sale on 12 November, we have an 18ct gold and diamond brooch, c.1970s, modelled as a stylised straw folded into a knot, in textured gold with pavé diamond terminals (estimate £3,000-5,000), and a pair of 18ct gold and diamond tube earrings, c.1990s, each designed as three textured gold hollow tubes of different lengths, the central tube with a pavé diamond terminal section (estimate £1,200-1,800). Although being sold as separate lots, they are incredibly similar in style and could easily be worn as a set.

With all of Grima’s work being highly collectable, it is anticipated that there will be keen interest from collectors worldwide, as previously seen with Grima pieces we have sold.  In a recent auction, we were lucky enough to sell a 1960s Grima and Omega collaboration piece - it was through-and-through Grima in style, with its pink tourmaline dial set in textured bright yellow gold, providing an amazing contrast of colour. This proved to be highly popular, with the hammer finally coming down, after keen bidding, at £19,500. And more recently, a beautiful ring, also from the 1960s and showcasing vibrant emeralds set within an iconic textured gold surround, sold for £5,500.

Keep an eye out for our upcoming Fine Jewellery and Watches sale to see a wide array of tantalising pieces, not only including works from Grima, but also other highly sought-after 20th-century designers.

Fine Jewellery and Watches

Tuesday 12 November | 10am

jewellery@sworder.co.uk | 01279 817778

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